A chimney fire is more likely far less likely if lined and would also be contained within the metal tube if you do not fit a chimney line. Open fires are very inefficient compared to stoves and have a very large amount of heat going up the chimney: the heat in most open fires travels fast and out the pot before it has chance to cool and deposit tars etc. Solid fuel stoves need all the help they can get in keeping that rising air nice and hot hence liners and sometimes even insulated liners.
Brains, brawn and bravery all help. Suffice to say it always looks a lot easier from the ground than it feels when you are up there. Or get a local roofer to fit your liner and cowl: you can save yourself a few hundred pounds when compared to many specialist companies.
The is the better and has the longer guarantee but is more expensive. Use if you plan on burning coal on anything other than an occasional basis. If burning good quality wood only is fine. If you can afford it go the If your stove has a back boiler go for Or Google it and make your own mind up! A liner must never be of a lesser diameter than the flue size requirement stated by the manufacturer. They will often do this because there is more room for error if a person does not have their chimney swept as often as they should a heavily soot coated liner obviously loses internal diameter.
One can insulate a flexi liner by blanket-wrapping it with a suitable material before inserting it Chimwrap etc. Massive chimney so needs lining. Vermiculite is out as it would need a hundred bags! So in this case we use Chimwrap. If the chimney is exposed on an outside wall , or the stack is particularly tall, or the flue is of a large diameter then the answer to the proposed question above is a definite YES! Insulated liners keep the flue gases warmer, increase the upward speed of those gases and help prevent condensation.
Otherwise it is not necessary. The air between the liner and the flue will insulate the liner. However, it is not difficult to insulate a liner just adds cost so it is up to you. More information on the insulating methods to follow. Link discussion on this issue. This is a MUST. Otherwise the loose soot is still a fire hazard and the person helping fit a chimney liner from inside the property will be covered in soot.
The room may also fill with billowing soot dust. Sweeping from bottom to top also tells you which pot belongs to your fireplace, something you obviously need to know. Shortly you will be dropping a weight attached to a rope down the chimney; you do not want this knocking loads of soot off the walls of the flue and into the fireplace of another room likely with a beige carpet!
One stove fitter I heard about swept a chimney from the top down. Full re-decoration and all new soft furnishings was the result and a new TV. You are going to drag a 10 metre or whatever stainless steel tube to the top of your chimney stack. You are going to drop a rope down the chimney with a weight on the end so your helper can grab it from within the fireplace other end secured to one end of liner.
You are going to use both hands to feed that liner down the chimney whilst your helper pulls down with the rope. The liner might get stuck on a bend. Then you have to pull it back up a bit, then push it down a bit and even maybe spin the whole lot degrees remember you might have X metres of the liner being dragged around your roof at this stage. This particular roof was a little steep for us!
I am happy in some circumstances to use ladders and cat ladders. However I always wear a professional harness and associated safety equipment. The liner will likely arrive in a coil. Uncoil it. You will notice that it has arrows printed on it. These arrows should always point to the sky when the liner is fitted they show the smoke direction.
DO NOT fit the liner upside down. Some brands can be fitted either way. Connect your long rope to the short rope connected to the cone. Connect a weight to the other end of that long rope. Take the weight to the top of the chimney and lower it down slowly until your helper has it.
Feed the liner down the chimney. Your helper is pulling and you are pushing. It is often good to have a third person running in and out of the house passing messages from you to your helper. But if the liner stops and will not feed further then stop and take a breather. When ready pull it back and try again, hopefully after a few attempts it will go.
If it will not go then you have to start thinking why? If it is in the first few metres then it will likely be getting stuck in the loft area where chimney flues often split away from each other and run off to their various rooms.
Stuck liner. Within this loft there are four flues. The places where the liner gets stuck are obvious as in this case — you can see the holes we made to assist the liner around the bends. This works if the liner has turned one bend and is not set up for the next bend has bent itself to point the wrong way.
Then try degrees. Most likely you will have to break into the chimney from the inside or outside of the house and help the liner on its way. Another option is to withdraw the liner and try pulling it up from the bottom to the top some bends are easier one way than the other. I suggest that this is only a remote possibility and do not really recommend this option except as a last resort.
Note that it may not be possible to break into the chimney in some stone or rubble built properties. Luckily these usually have large diameter chimneys we get a lot of these in North Wales. If you cannot get the liner down the chimney and cannot break through the wall? You may need to put the liner on Ebay and look at having the chimney concrete lined.
Anyway, enough of the doom and gloom. Hopefully you arrive at the stage where you have a little liner sticking out the fireplace and a little sticking out the chimney stack or pot.
What you do next depends on whether you are pouring Vermiculite around the liner or not pouring Vermiculite around the liner. You will most likely be blanket wrapping your liner if you have a huge chimney Inglenook style maybe.
Only try this if you know your chimney is of a suitable diameter. I recommend Chimwrap as it is easy to fit and lighter than some others.
It is supplied ready to go with the proper connectors. I tried Rockwool once and never again. Fitting is straightforward. Instead of feeding it down the chimney you haul it up the chimney. Increased efficiency through a better draft, and reduced creosote build up. An affordable alternative to repairing or rebuilding the chimney and much easier to clean. Lifetime Warranty because the stainless steel liner is a corrosion resistant liner you can expect the liner to last a lifetime, virtually maintenance free.
Is this a DIY project? Typically yes, you need to stand on the roof and reach the top of the chimney, and being somewhat handy with household tools will help. We also have knowledgable Certified Chimney Sweeps, that can walk you through even the toughest situation, we are just a phone call away , even email us your pictures and we can troubleshoot right on the spot. Is a stainless liner my best option? Stainless will always be the best option when it comes to performance, durability, safety and cost.
A stainless steel chimney liner that is properly sized, for the stove, furnace, or fireplace will maintain or improve the venting performance draft.
Our stainless chimney liners are primarily used to upgrade and repair existing chimneys. These liner systems are U. Stainless steel is suitable for wood burning, gas, or oil applications. The liner protects the house from heat transfer to combustibles while being installed in a masonry chimney. Probably not, most everything can be installed with a Round liner, with the exception of some liners for fireplaces.
Larger is not necessarily better when it comes to your flue liner. Too large will give you a slow draft and poor performance, and too small will restrict the draft.
If you are connecting this to a gas furnace, boiler, or water heater then you will need to know the total amount of BTU's. If you are connecting an oil system, it would be GPH gallons per hour which is listed on the unit.
Also knowing the height of the chimney will help. With this information we can calculate the liner diameter needed. If this is for your stove or insert, then it would be the same as the inner diameter of the exhaust of the unit. Throw the rope down the chimney and let your partner grab it. Have your partner hold the liner centered and then seal the chimney crown with silicone caulking — place the top plate over the liner and press it on down into the caulking to create a good seal.
Secure the quick connect clamp around the liner — do it tightly and using tap con screws in the drilled holes. Now get the appliance connector attached to the liner and the bottom termination point. Find the tee snout on the bottom of the liner — use those snips of yours to cut out a hole in the mesh and insulation where this snout will connect to the tee body. Go ahead and fasten the tee snout and the tee body together via the pre-attached metal and then wrap it around to the backside of the tee body; have the connection covered with leftover insulation.
Overall, this job takes a lot of work. You are in danger of getting hurt and one slip up will cause you thousands of dollars in chimney damages. We have served Chicagoland for over 30 years with great chimney services and cleaning.
We have aluminum and stainless chimney liners. Contact us today to speak to a product specialist. What Is A Chimney Liner? Review Chimney First, you need to get a review done on the chimney itself. Buy a Chimney Liner Time to go buy a liner using the measurements and specs that you have deduced above. Flatten the Liner and Apply Insulation Flatten out the liner on a level surface and then hook up the bottom connector to the bottom of the liner and then fasten a hose clamp to the connector with a wrench.
Seal the Chimney Crown Have your partner hold the liner centered and then seal the chimney crown with silicone caulking — place the top plate over the liner and press it on down into the caulking to create a good seal. Attach Connector to the Liner and Connect the Tee Snout Now get the appliance connector attached to the liner and the bottom termination point. Got a question?
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